Friday, July 3, 2015

The 4th at the Fair

(I have written a previous post about 4th of July in the White City focusing on H. H. Holmes. You can read it here: Independence Day in the White City)

The main goal of the World's Columbian Exposition was to exceed even the highest of expectations. In 1889, Paris had hosted the Exposition Universelle (or EXPO Paris). America had a pavilion but it was seriously half-assed and next to bigger, larger displays of lavishness, it became a huge embarrassment for the States. So when Chicago built the White City in 1893, Americans everywhere sought redemption in the form of a titanic fair that not only rivaled the Exposition Universelle but toppled it.

Therefore, it is only fitting that the grand Chicago exposition would host an even grander 4th of July celebration. A 4th of July celebration to end all 4th of July celebrations. Devil in the White City (written by Erik Larson, click on the title to buy it) describes the luminous festivities in great detail. Seriously, it is amazing what people could create before our modern technology came along.

The fireworks show was planned by Frank Millett partly because what is 4th of July without fireworks but mainly to boost attendance "which despite steady week-to-week increases still lagged behind expectations." (Remember that the fair was only open until October). However, his work was almost grounded when storm clouds rolled in and threatened to downpour on Jackson Park. Thankfully, the sun returned in the afternoon and eventually yielded to a clear night sky.

Spectators arrived hours beforehand to secure good seats. Soon they were "massed a hundred deep" along the lake (sounds like modern day 4th of July in Washington, D.C.) chatting and occasional even singing to pass time. "One man began 'Nearer My God to Thee' and immediately a few thousand people joined in." Scattered amongst the throng was the entire Columbian Guard, the official police force of the fair. They were easy to spot being the only people wearing pale blue uniforms.

Aside from the shore, visitors wealthy enough to either own or charter boats strung decorative lights on their bows and anchored on the lake. Some spectators stood on the roof of the Manufactures and Liberal Arts Building which doubled as a large observation tower accessible via elevator.



It was here that hundreds unknowingly crossed paths with the Monster of 63rd Street. H. H. Holmes, along with Minnie and Anna Williams, watched the fireworks from the balcony.

As darkness fell, the fair lit up. "Thousands of Chinese lanterns hung from trees and railings and red lights glowed from each car of the Ferris Wheel." In case you were wondering, the wheel had 36 passenger cars. By that time, the crowd, according to Larson, "cheered for anything." Anything included the exposition orchestra's rendition of "Home Sweet Home," the Court of Honor's lights turning on, the searchlights on the previously mentioned observation deck (you can see one in the image above) sweeping the crowd like at a modern day rock concert, and plumes of water (often described in era newspapers as "peacock feathers") shooting from the MacMonnies Fountain (named for its sculptor Frederick MacMonnies).

The uproarious crowd suddenly hushed at 9 PM as if they were watching the ghost of Abraham Lincoln fly through the air. Okay, they were actually looking at a manned hot air balloon which was spotted due to the fact that it was carrying some sort of light flare below its basket. Without warning, the flare burst into sparks of red, white, and blue, forming a huge American flag in the sky. "Seconds later rockets began arching over the lakeshore. Men with flares raced along the beach lighting mortars, as other men aboard barges set off large rotating flares and hurled bombs" (I hope they got paid well for that job) "into the lake, causing the water to explode in extravagant geysers of red, white, and blue." This kept up without delay until the big finale. A network of wires strung on, ironically, Festival Hall exploded into a portrait of George Washington. Happy Birthday, America!

It has been 122 years since the World's Columbian Exposition and 239 years since we gained our Independence. And even though I'm a tad early, have an amazing 4th of July, everyone. From Jackson Park in the Windy City to wherever you are spending the day, may God bless America, from sea to shining sea, in the land of the free because of the brave.

Until next time.

XOXO, Kate